To Seek Christopher Wren, One Must Look Around London
Name one landmark in London without the plaque that bears Sir Christopher Wren's name. The Great Bell at the end of the Palace of Westminster is one. Designed by Charles Barry, this icon of London is popularly known as Big Ben. London Eye is another one, but this is rather recent. One must go to the Monument to the Great Fire of London instead.
Fire swept through the central part of London on September 2-5, 1666, and Wren was tasked with the rebuilding of the city. The Monument, which is near the northern end of London Bridge, commemorates the Great Fire. It was built on the site of St Margaret's, Fish Street, the first church to be burnt down by the blaze. Charles Dickens described the Doric column in “The Life and Adventures of Martin Chuzzlewit” (1844):
“If the day were bright, you observed upon the house-tops, stretching far away, a long dark path; the shadow of the Monument; and turning round, the tall original was close beside you, with every hair erect upon his golden head, as if the doings of the city frightened him.”
One must go up the viewing platform to appreciate the author's words. It offers a panorama of London, and for those who are still curious about Wren, the summit provides the clues.
Climbing up Ludgate Hill
Ludgate Hill, Tower Hill and Cornhill are the three ancient hills of London. Ludgate is the most important place in this side of the metropolis; a Roman temple of Diana once stood on where St. Paul's Cathedral is. Wren, who was born in East Knoyle, Wiltshire on October 20, 1632, knew that this would be his masterpiece.
St. Paul's Cathedral is the second largest church building after Liverpool Cathedral. The dome dominated London's skyline for more than three centuries. The structure became associated with national identity after the Blitz. In fact, it was standing in one piece by the end of World War II. Its significance grew as the years passed by. (This was where the wedding of Prince Charles, the eldest child of Queen Elizabeth II, and Lady Diana Spencer took place.) This is one of fifty two churches that Wren designed and rebuilt after the fire. (St. Michael's Cornhill and St. Peter upon Cornhill are in Cornhill, St. Clement Eastcheap and St Mary Abchurch are in Candlewick, and St James Garlickhythe is in Vintry.) Some places of worship were demolished due to the Union of Benefices Act 1860, while a tower is what remains of the rest.
Looking for a place called home
Wren may be credited with so many architectural designs, but the place where he lived is another matter. As a matter of fact, it's still a mystery.
The current owners of the Sir Christopher Wren House Hotel in Thames Street, Windsor, claim that this is the architect's original home. It dates back to the 17th century, but architectural historian Elias Kupfermann has doubts.
"There's no historical evidence or architectural evidence, though I'd love it to be the case," he said.
"Obviously they haven't done their homework," says Kupfermann of the hotel's past and present owners.
He adds: "I will give the hotel a challenge: if the hotel can produce historic documentation that a) Wren lived there, and b) Wren built the building I'll eat my hat and I will make sure that Windsor is told that this is the case."
Maybe someone can figure this out.
